Jongmyo was burned down in the Japanese invasion in the 16th century, but was rebuilt and fortunately survived the Japanese colonial period in the 20th century unmolested. Usually you can only enter with tours, and the English ones are scheduled at really awkward times, but on Saturdays, you can enter and walk around without a guide.
Due to the fact that NOTHING seems to open before 9, it was being surprisingly hard to find breakfast in Korea. The area we were staying in was full of government and city buildings, so there wasn't much in the way of street food or early morning restaurants as most people coming into the area would have had breakfast at home. We arrived at Jongmyo before it opened, of course, and settled for the only thing we could find in the area, a small stand selling "toast." Toast turned out to be toasted pieces of bread with a fried egg, lettuce, and ham, with a sweet chili sauce. Not bad, especially since it was something like 3,500 KRW and very filling.
Jongmyo STILL wasn't open, so we sat down at a little park opposite the entrance. There's usually a bigger park, but it was closed and surrounded by a construction wall. When I peaked through a crack in the wall, it looked like they were doing some tree planting and improvements. Next time!
외대문 (Widaemun)
Over that wall was the big park
At 9 we entered, the first ones in. Sorry about the pictures being more blurry. I didn't notice how dirt my camera lens was.
The central pathway was for spirits only. Justin was amused that at the palaces, we were allowed to walk on the raised center path for kings, but at Jongmyo, even now, walking where the spirit's path is prohibited.
Some info on Jongmyo
종묘관리수 (Jongmyo Gwanrisu) Now used as offices.
망묘루 (Mangmyoru) in the forefront, 향대청 (Hyangdaecheong) in the background
중연지 (Jungyeonji), square ponds and round islands are a reoccurring motif. The square pond was supposed to represent the Earth, and the round island was the heavens or universe.
Bad picture of some mandarin ducks. These are the ducks that the Korean wedding ducks are based off of because they mate for life.
향대청 (Hyangdaecheong)
The layout of the burial ceremony.
A chest to hold records.
The chest to hold the 도장 (dojangs), or seals.
Because it was so early it was very peaceful.
제궁 (Jaegung) This was where the king would wash and freshen up and dress for the ceremony.
제기도 병풍 (Jaegido byeong pung) 10 panel folding screen depicting the ceremonial vessels
십이장복 (Shipijangbok) The ceremonial clothing worn by the king. 모란병풍 (Murangbyeongpung) An 8 paneled screen painted with peonies.
용교의 (Yonggyoeui) A portable throne for the king.
종묘친제규제도설병풍 (Jongmyo Chinjaegyojaedoseol byeongpung) 8 paneled folding screen
소여 (Soyeo) a small sedan chair for the king.
남신문 (Namsinmun), the entrance to 정전 (Jeongjeon)
정전 (Jeongjeon) National Treasure No. 227, Jeongjeon is the longest building of this style in Korea.
The stone area in front of it is called a 월대 (woldae).
This is the path that the king would take. He would enter on the east side while the musicians and dancers would enter on the west.
Spirit path.
This stone slab was enormous. Felt like a football field.
찬막단 (Chanmakdan) The table where they inspected the food before they were place in front of the shrine.
전사청 (Jeonsacheong) The kitchen
성생위 (Seongsaengwi) Inspection table for sacrificial animals.
제정 (Jejeong) The shrine well.
This was at the corner of the all the doors. I love it.
영녕전 (Yeongnyeongjeon) this was another building built to house shrines after Jeongjeon was full. This building was directly to the west.
안공청 (Angongcheong) the musicians's dressing room for Yeongnyeongjeon.
종묘안공청 (Jongmyo Angongcheong) The musician's dressing room for Jeongjeon
It took us an hour to walk around Jongmyo, the same length as the tour. I highly suggest you go on a Saturday early because you can go at your own rate and get nice pictures, but I bet the tour is good too.
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